#Olympus master 3 update#
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#Olympus master 3 download#

Once I have the keepers colour marked I either discard the raw+jpg of the remainder or sometimes keep some of those (no colour mark) just in case I want to go back to them.ДЇinally I then use OV3 Edit on the raw files - there are two tabs with various commands on each menu in OV3 - 'Raw' and 'Edit' - I usually work through the 'Raw' changes first and the 'Edit' changes to get the image as I want. When I have multiple shots of the same thing (perhaps bracketed) I use the Light Box and drop a few in there and then use 1:1 and zoom to compare them and use the colour marks to help me in managing and making a final selection. I then go through what is left taking a more critical look and if it's one I want to keep I tag the raw file using one of the red/yellow/blue colour marks (you just assign those in your mind to what you want them to mean). Those I don't want I then delete the raw+jpg. Then I start going through the images in OV3 - I do an initial cull of the obvious duds reviewing the jpgs for speed of working through them as they load quicker than the raw files in OV3 (I have LF setting for jpg in camera).

#Olympus master 3 download#

I set the import option so that OV3 creates an album for each day with the raw+jpg combo for each photo - so if I have multiple days to download I get one album per day. I simply import all the images from my camera into OV3 (I use the USB cable from the camera to my computer and the OV3 import function - I prefer the cable to taking out the card).

#Olympus master 3 software#

If you don't mind me asking, what is your very first step? Do you use some kind of organizing software to import everything off the card and then a quick check to eliminate the obvious duds before going to OV3? I don't process loads of images mind (although I do a bit of commercial work and sell some) and I am very selective from what I shoot to what I want to keep so maybe that has a bearing on why I find OV3 suits me. I also have a subscription to Lightroom/Photoshop and occasionally if I want to do some further image editing that I can't achieve in OV3 I will save as TIFF from OV3 and then do manipulations on Photoshop. Also all of the in-camera modes are in OV3 too (like the art filters) should I want to play further and OV3 just seems quite logical following on from using the camera. The jpgs produced are also in-line with the in-camera jpg colours etc. What I like about OV3 is that the raw files load as per the settings that the camera had when the photo was taken and then I can tweak them from here. I prefer to get the shots right in camera and don't like to do a lot of PP. I shoot raw (plus jpg for reference) and process all the raw files in OV3. Despite all the negatives I read about software speed I don't find any problems on that count - I use an i7 laptop, 16GB RAM with a graphics card (selected in OV3 to use) and SSD for the primary disk. I use OV3 for all initial processing from raw.

#Olympus master 3 update#

Is there still a case to be made for OV3 as the first step of a workflow? Or did the recentish big update of LR make it redundant? However, there is the 'time cost' of learning to use them to their best. So, for me, Olympus View 3, LR and PS are all 'free'.

#Olympus master 3 full#

I have a full Adobe CC subscription, because I use other Adobe products, like Illustrator and InDesign, for graphic design. Terry Lane posted a video recently saying Olympus Viewer 3 was good for noise reduction, and I believe that Robin Won uses/used it as well (although I see that he is also using Capture 1.